Leather Shoe Care Guide: How to Clean, Condition & Store Leather Shoes

Why Leather Care Matters

A well-made pair of genuine leather shoes can last a decade or more — but only with the right care. Leather is a natural material that responds to its environment: it dries out without moisture, cracks without conditioning, and stains without protection. The good news is that leather care is straightforward once you understand what the material needs and why.

This guide covers smooth leather, suede, and nubuck — the three materials used across the 37 Brand collection — with specific instructions for each.

Smooth Leather Care

Daily Maintenance

After each wear, wipe your shoes down with a soft, dry cloth to remove surface dust and any moisture. This takes thirty seconds and prevents dirt from working into the grain. Store your shoes in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, which fades and dries leather over time.

Cleaning

For light soiling, a slightly damp cloth is sufficient. For more significant marks, use a dedicated leather cleaner — apply a small amount to a soft cloth and work in gentle circular motions, then allow to dry naturally. Do not use household cleaning products, detergents, or alcohol-based solutions on leather; these strip the natural oils from the hide and accelerate ageing.

Conditioning

Condition your leather shoes every two to three months, or whenever the leather begins to look dry or loses its sheen. Apply a small amount of leather conditioner or cream to a soft cloth and work it into the leather in circular motions. Allow to absorb for ten to fifteen minutes, then buff with a clean cloth. Conditioning replenishes the natural oils in the leather, keeps it supple, and prevents cracking.

Do not over-condition — applying too much product too frequently can soften the leather excessively and attract dust. Once a season is usually sufficient for regularly worn shoes.

Polishing

Polish is optional but recommended for shoes you wear frequently to work or formal occasions. Use a wax-based polish in a colour that matches your leather — or a neutral polish for multicolour or light-coloured leathers. Apply with a brush or cloth, allow to dry, then buff to a shine. Polish provides an additional layer of protection as well as improving appearance.

Waterproofing

Apply a leather waterproofing spray or wax before wearing new shoes for the first time, and reapply every few months or after cleaning. Waterproofing does not make leather completely waterproof — it reduces water penetration and makes the leather more resistant to light rain and splashing. Avoid wearing unprotected leather shoes in heavy rain.

If your leather shoes do get wet, allow them to dry naturally at room temperature — never use a direct heat source such as a radiator or hairdryer, which can cause the leather to crack and warp.

Suede & Nubuck Care

The Suede Brush

A suede brush is the most important tool for suede care. Use it after each wear to restore the nap — the soft, directional surface texture of suede. Brush in one direction with light pressure to lift the nap and remove surface dust. For more stubborn marks, use a slightly firmer motion or a dedicated suede eraser before brushing.

Waterproofing Suede

Apply a suede-specific water-repellent spray before first wear and after every cleaning. Hold the can 20–30cm from the surface and apply in a light, even coat. Allow to dry completely before wearing. This step significantly reduces the risk of water staining, which is the most common cause of permanent damage to suede.

Removing Stains from Suede

Act quickly. Blot (do not rub) any liquid immediately with a clean cloth to absorb as much as possible before it sets. For dried stains, use a suede eraser or the edge of a coin to gently work the stain out of the nap, then brush to restore the surface. Oil-based stains are the most difficult — apply a small amount of cornstarch to absorb the oil, leave overnight, then brush away.

For severe staining, take the shoes to a specialist leather cleaner. Attempting to remove significant stains with water or household products can cause permanent damage to suede.

Storage for Suede

Store suede shoes in a breathable dust bag — not plastic, which traps moisture. Keep them away from direct sunlight, which fades the colour of suede more quickly than smooth leather. If storing for an extended period, stuff with tissue paper to maintain the shape of the upper.

General Storage Rules

Use shoe trees. Cedar shoe trees absorb moisture, maintain the shape of the upper, and help the leather dry evenly after wear. They are particularly important for leather shoes worn regularly.

Rotate your shoes. Wearing the same pair every day does not give the leather time to dry fully between wears. Rotating between two or three pairs extends the life of each significantly.

Store in dust bags or boxes. Exposure to light and air over extended periods fades leather and dries it out. The original box is ideal; a breathable fabric dust bag is the next best option.

Do not store in plastic. Plastic traps moisture and promotes mould growth, particularly in leather shoes that have been worn and have absorbed perspiration.

When to Resole

The upper of a well-made leather shoe will outlast several soles. When the sole wears through — particularly at the heel — have it replaced by a cobbler before it causes damage to the upper or the welt. Resoling is significantly less expensive than replacing the shoe, and a quality leather upper can be resoled multiple times.

A Simple Routine

After each wear: wipe down and store on shoe trees.
Monthly: brush (suede) or spot clean (smooth leather) as needed.
Every 2–3 months: condition smooth leather; reapply waterproofing to suede.
Annually: full clean, condition, and polish for smooth leather; professional clean for heavily worn suede.