Leather Types Guide: Smooth, Suede, Nubuck & More

Not All Leather Is the Same

When people talk about leather shoes, they often treat leather as a single material. In practice, there are several distinct types of leather used in footwear — each with different properties, appearances, and care requirements. Understanding these differences helps you choose the right shoe for your lifestyle and get the most out of every pair you own.

Smooth Genuine Leather

The most versatile and durable option. Smooth leather is produced from the top layer of the hide — the grain side — which is the strongest, most consistent part of the skin. It has a clean, uniform surface that polishes well, resists scuffs better than softer finishes, and develops a natural patina over time that makes each pair unique to its owner.

Best for: Loafers, boots, structured heels, everyday wear. Works across casual and formal contexts.
Care: Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Condition every 2–3 months with a leather cream. Polish as needed.

Suede

Suede is produced from the underside of the hide, known as the flesh side. The result is a soft, napped surface with a distinctive matte texture. Suede is lighter and more supple than smooth leather, which makes it ideal for styles where drape and flexibility are important — mules, loafers, and ankle boots in particular.

Suede is more susceptible to water and staining than smooth leather, but this is easily managed with the right protective products. A suede brush and a water-repellent spray applied from new will significantly extend the life and appearance of any suede shoe.

Best for: Mules, penny loafers, ankle boots, relaxed everyday styles.
Care: Brush regularly with a suede brush. Apply water-repellent spray before first wear and after cleaning. Avoid wearing in heavy rain.

Nubuck

Nubuck is often confused with suede, but the two are produced differently. Where suede comes from the underside of the hide, nubuck is produced by buffing the grain side — the outer surface — to create a fine, velvety nap. Because it is produced from the stronger top layer, nubuck is more durable than suede while retaining a similarly soft, matte appearance.

Best for: Boots, structured loafers, styles requiring both softness and durability.
Care: Same as suede — use a nubuck brush and water-repellent spray. Nubuck is slightly more forgiving than suede but still benefits from regular maintenance.

Pebbled Leather

Pebbled leather is smooth leather that has been treated to create a textured, grain-like surface — a pattern of small, irregular bumps that resembles the surface of a pebble. The texture adds visual depth and, practically, makes the leather more resistant to surface scratches and everyday marks. It hides minor scuffs more effectively than flat smooth leather.

Best for: Loafers, everyday shoes, styles where durability and visual interest matter equally.
Care: Same as smooth leather. The textured surface is forgiving — wipe clean, condition regularly.

Croco-Embossed Leather

Croco-embossed leather is genuine smooth leather that has been pressed with a crocodile or reptile-scale pattern. The embossing is applied under heat and pressure, creating a permanent texture in the hide. It is not genuine crocodile skin — it is genuine leather with a decorative surface treatment. The result is a bold, distinctive texture that adds visual impact to any silhouette.

Best for: Statement loafers, heels, and boots where texture is a design element.
Care: As with smooth leather. Avoid over-conditioning, which can soften the embossed texture over time.

How to Choose

If you want one pair that does everything: smooth genuine leather.
If you want texture and softness for everyday wear: suede or nubuck.
If you want durability with visual interest: pebbled leather.
If you want a statement piece: croco-embossed leather.

All of the materials above are used across the 37 Brand collection. Every shoe page specifies the material used in its upper so you always know exactly what you are buying.